I haven’t see a city that is more in the present than Seoul. I make it short – I loved it. I’d go back in an instant. My sister Mascha and me were traveling to Seoul in spring 2023 – working in beauty, I was extremely curious of the “scene” (it’s wild and I could tell you so much about the industry and how its affecting standards globally).
It is full of Zeitgeisty design, technology and a spirit that feels so “now”. Everything is highly entertaining, super sensory, very particular and authentic. Yes, it is full of stores and cafés, but even if you don’t want to consume, it’s worth to check all out. The retail design is spectacular and can compete with the fanciest galleries.
Seoul is unique. I couldn’t find a comparison (it is not like Tokyo, like some around me assumed) and it is not a mix of anything I’ve seen.
It’s not always smooth to navigate without speaking Korean, but everything is very visual and easy to access, Uber works well plus it is very safe. Sounds creepy, but we were just following cool looking people around and discovered the best places that way!
(To make things a little more challenging: my sister is allergic to Gluten and I don’t eat meat, so, sorry, not Korean BBQ recommendations from my side).
Traveled in March 2023
1. HAVE A DRINK AT TONGUE CAFÉ
Tongue Café was my very favorite café and snack place. It is so unique and a must.
Very well hidden on a first floor, lies a gigantic space filled with vintage furniture from the 80s and 90s, think Memphis design coming to a 3D space slash art installation. You can lie in a fluffy bed full of blankets, lounge at puffy sofa or cubic chair. Equally abstract sound is playing and snacks are made in the shape of tongues. Of course, you don’t just order – you pick a card from the “model snacks” and hand it to the cashier. Coffee drinks are either sour or sweet, I couldn’t really find out what made the difference, but you are safe by just ordering by the looks (not only here, anywhere). The area around is fun too, stores and more restaurants await…
Seongdong-gu, Seongsui-ro, 82 2층
More cafés I enjoyed: Dreamlike Coffee (a small chain, they play jazz music) and we got our morning café often at Luft – 308 Samil-daero, Jung-gu – which has a minimal, open space and delicious treats, Pink Rabbit – 62 Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu – is close to the Bukchon Hanok, the old part of Seoul and has a lovely backyard garden.
2. BUY A SWEATER AT PAN AM
…yes, just like the airline! Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures inside, but trust me: The store design and also clothing are worth a walk. Glass and steel, subtle branding and with a futuristic feel, this unisex store sells elevated basics and features a little coffee bar (most stores do have a bar, in general, spaces feel huge anyhow). Slide through the blue hole and see what’s possible in architecture. And, grab a some cute cropped sweater or jersey shorts – clothes are simple, but still exciting. It’s close to Tongue café and there are more lovely shops down this street.
Yeonmujang-gil, Seongdong-gu
3. SMELL A SCENT AT BORNTOSTANDOUT
It appears like a gallery first, with a white tunnel full of art – but it leads to room full of perfume, candles and scents, drenched in red light, followed by a mirrored room where you can explore each fragrance. The Korean luxury fragrance brand fill their scents into white porcelain bottles, a tribute to Koreas moon jar (which was made during the Joseon dynasty 1392–1910). Don’t miss the sparkling “Naked Neroli” – a fresh bergamot with a slice of orange. It’s also next door to the beautiful Leeum Museum Of Art.
Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-ro 55-gil, 43-1 1층
4. TRY ON SUNNIES AT GENTLE MONSTER DOSAN
Sunglass brand gentle monster is know for their artful approach – even if you have zero interest in their products, it’s worth to check out their stores that have such unique architecture and installations. The one in Dosan is located in lively, slightly bougie area with amazing architecture and a small park around. It stretches over multiple levels and feels more like a gallery than a store due to the robotic installations.
50, Apgujeong-ro 46-gil, Gangnam-gu
5. TASTE THE REAL TTEOKBOKKI + DAK GALBI
You’ve had Kimichi and maybe Tteokbokki (hot and spicy rice cake pieces looking like long gnocchi in a red sauce – if you haven’t tried, do it!) – but what about Dak Galbi? In many places, this dish is chicken based, but it’s been no problem to get a vegetarian version with kimchi and cabbage. It’s basically huge pan filled with a spicy sauce (there are some options) and vegetables (or meat) and, at this place, its topped with cheese so you a slightly sticky, extremely delicious mix that you to rice or salad leaves (maybe we were wrong in doing so, but no one screamed at us, like eg taxi drivers when we entered the car from the “wrong” side or where mansplained when we ate Bimbimbap with sticks – apparently, you eat it with spoon or fork).
You’ll find a lot of options around the city for Dak Galbi, but we loved this place the most: Sinmigyeong
364-22, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu
6. BUY THIS PEELING
There is plenty of beauty products to buy, but if would need to pick, it would be the “Baby Silky Body Exfoliating Spray” – its not a very poetic name and a very effective body peeling that you find in most of Myeongdong beauty stores (eg Pretty Skin, 9 Myeongdong 8-gil, Jung-gu) where they sell a variety of brands). You spray it on dry skin and and scrub dead skin cells just by hand or a towel. The skin turn super smooth in seconds. I couldn’t find out which chemical is creating this instant shedding, but it the feeling is gentle.
In general, Seoul is a paradise for beauty nerds: from treatments to masks, whimsical make-up stores to “happy hours” at drugstore (check the chain Olive Young for this, really, there is a certain time they give discount) , the city is packed with beautifying options. The highest density of beauty stores you will find in Myeongdong, Koreans biggest brands, like Etude House (32-1 Myeongdong 8-gil, Jung-gu), 3CE, have their flagships here. Make-up color feel limited, but textures are gorgeous, from pillowy blurry matte to dewy tints.
7. WALK AROUND SEONGDONG-GU
This has been my favorite area: it is full of charming pastry shops, cafés, bars, cool stationery and design stores and cute fashion and accessory shops. The variety in styles and tastes is high.
See Peaches. D8NE (9 Yeonmujang 3-gil, Seongdong-gu) for example that is hidden in backyard and hosts unisex fashion, sports cars and donuts, or check Fermented Ghost (5-12 Seongsuil-ro 3-gil, Seongdong-gu) for drinks in the evening or Center Coffee Seoul Forest (28-11 Seoulsup 2-gil, Seongdong-gu) for a calm moment with direct view into the nearby park.
8. GET INSPIRED BY DIGITAL BEAUTY
Well hidden lies the Ara Art Center – with little to advertising and a very humble exterior, we weren’t expecting such stunning installations. 14 digital installations by Miguel Chevalier draw you into abstract, spacey, organic worlds made up of pixels, networks, flows and algorithmic geometries, many of them are interactive and accompanied by sound. The whole exhibition stretches over various floors and rooms. This is also a wonderful reflection of Koreas advanced technology where you’ll find the fastest WiFi of your (Euro centered) life in a small snack shop.
26 Insadong 9-gil, Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu
9. SKATE OR STROLL AROUND DONGDAEMUN DESIGN PLAZA
This dystopian landmark was designed by Zaha Hadid as you might have guessed due to its floating and organic yet futuristic stylistics. It is impressive to see, especially in the early evening with its lightning and sculptures arounds. Not many will carry their rollerskates to Korea like I did, but if you plan to: This is a stunning space to skate around. And don’t worry: Nobody will give you any attention nor stop you. Of course, it’s also walkable and you can be a normal travelers who prefers shoes over wheels.
281 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu
10. GET YOUR VINTAGE FIX
While Hongdae is famous for its K-music clubs, it’s also the area to go thrift and fashion shopping. The selection in clothing and accessories is mostly inspired by US-influenced style of the 90s and 2000s and some stores burst with big brand labels from Fendi to Burberry, but also Diesel and True Religion.
Everything is usually in a great condition and the variety is high. A good starting point is for example Vintage Santa (9 Hongik-ro, Mapo-gu) from where you can explore plenty more stores. The chances of finding a bigger size will be also higher in thrift stores – one sad fact about Seoul is the lack of diversity in sizes in most fashion stores. For reference: I am 1,65m and wear a EU 36 (US 2) and I have to get usually the biggest size, I’m on the upper end!
10 Things To Do 